Maybe you’ve bought a “squirrel-proof” feeder from the garden center, only to watch squirrels solve it in a few days. You tried a spinning baffle, but they just jumped past it. Even hot pepper-infused seed didn’t stop them; they ate it anyway, sometimes looking like they enjoyed it.
If you feel like you’re losing the battle against squirrels at your bird feeder, you’re not alone. Most Americans who feed birds face the same problem. Squirrels are clever, determined, and athletic, and your feeder is an easy food source for them. Every “guaranteed squirrel-proof” product seems to fail after a few weeks. Instead of feeding cardinals and chickadees, your seed is going to the squirrels that scare those birds away.
Here’s what most advice gets wrong: there isn’t one product that will solve your squirrel problem. But there is a combination of methods that really works, costs less than you might think, and can give you results in just a few days instead of another year of frustration.
The real solution is to know what squirrels can and can’t do, which products actually work, which so-called solutions are just marketing hype, and how to set up your feeder so that physics—not gimmicks—keep squirrels away for good.
This guide covers every method worth trying, ranked by how well they work and what trade-offs you can expect. You’ll learn about physical and chemical methods, which products are truly effective, which seeds squirrels avoid, the installation rules that matter, how squirrel problems vary by region, and the common mistakes that can turn good ideas into wasted money.
By the end, you’ll know exactly what to By the end, you’ll know exactly how to keep squirrels off your bird feeder for good. The birds will come back, your seed will go to cardinals and other favorites, and the squirrels will move on to easier pickings elsewhere.
An eastern gray squirrel—the main culprit in most American yards—can jump about 10 feet across and 5 feet up from a standstill. They’ll leap from trees, fences, roofs, or even other feeders to reach yours. Most people think a few feet is a safe distance, but it’s not nearly enough.
Squirrels can climb nearly any vertical surface. Even smooth metal poles only slow them down for a moment. They can grip and climb surfaces that seem too slippery. Most poles included in “complete bird feeding kits” from garden centers are actually the worst choice for keeping squirrels away.
Squirrels learn quickly and remember what works. If one figures out your latest squirrel-proof feeder, it will keep coming back—and other squirrels will watch and learn too. What starts as one squirrel can turn into five in just a few weeks.
Squirrels are incredibly determined. They’ll spend hours trying to get into a feeder full of seed and will keep coming back, even after being chased away many times. For them, the high-calorie food is worth all the effort.
Squirrels are active in all kinds of weather—rain, snow, cold, or heat. While many birds slow down in tough conditions, squirrels usually don’t. Your feeder is at risk every daylight hour, all year long.
Knowing these facts explains why so many “obvious” solutions don’t work. The only squirrel-proofing that succeeds is based on what squirrels can really do, not what we wish they couldn’t.
The Three Approaches That Actually Work
Effective squirrel-proofing comes down to three fundamental strategies. Most successful setups combine two or more of these. Single-method approaches usually fail because squirrels eventually defeat any single defense.
Strategy 1: Physical barriers that exploit squirrel physical limitations. Baffles, distance from jumping platforms, and proper pole placement.
Strategy 2: Mechanical feeders that close under squirrel weight. Weight-activated feeders that allow birds access but close when a heavier squirrel arrives.
Strategy 3: Seed selection that squirrels won’t eat. Specific seed types that squirrels actively avoid.
Each strategy has different costs, different effectiveness levels, and different practical trade-offs. The strongest setups combine all three for redundant defense.
Strategy 1: Physical Barriers Done Properly
This is the foundation of effective squirrel-proofing. Get the physical setup right, and you’ve solved most of the problem before considering any expensive feeder.
The pole-mounted feeder with baffle (most effective single setup)
The single most effective squirrel-proofing approach is a properly installed pole-mounted feeder with a properly sized baffle. Done correctly, this completely defeats squirrels. Done incorrectly (as most people set it up), squirrels access it within days.
The pole. Use a pole at least 6 feet tall, ideally 7 to 8 feet. The feeder hangs at the top, putting it at least 5 to 6 feet above the ground. Smooth metal poles (not wood, not rough surfaces) are essential. The pole must be sunk into the ground deeply enough to be rigid (no wobbling) and stable.
The location. This is where almost everyone fails. The pole must be installed at least 10 feet horizontally from anything a squirrel could jump from. This includes:
- Trees and tree branches (above and to the sides)
- Fences (the most common forgotten jumping platform)
- Shed roofs, deck railings, and outdoor furniture
- Other poles or stakes
- House walls and roof eaves
- Even tall garden plants like sunflowers in summer
If you’re not sure whether something is within 10 feet, measure it. Squirrels can jump farther than most people estimate.
The baffle. A baffle is a physical barrier mounted on the pole below the feeder that prevents squirrels from climbing up. The best baffles are large cones or cylinders (at least 15 inches in diameter) made of metal or hard plastic, mounted on the pole at least 4 feet above the ground. Smaller baffles don’t work because squirrels can climb past them.
Brands worth looking at: Audubon Wrap-Around Baffle, Woodlink Wrap-Around Baffle, and Brome Squirrel Baffle. Plan to spend $25 to $50 on a baffle that actually works. The $10 baffles from big-box stores rarely succeed because they’re too small.
Critical installation detail: the baffle must be mounted at a height where its bottom is at least 4 feet above the ground. If a squirrel can stand on the ground and put its paws on the bottom of the baffle, the baffle has failed.
The hanging feeder with sky baffle.
For feeders hung from tree branches or hooks, a different baffle approach is needed. The “sky baffle” or “dome baffle” mounts above the feeder, preventing squirrels from dropping down onto it from above.
The same 10-foot horizontal distance rule applies. The branch the feeder hangs from must be at least 10 feet from any other branch a squirrel could jump from. And the dome baffle above must be at least 18 inches in diameter to prevent squirrels from reaching around it.
In practice, hanging feeders are much harder to squirrel-proof than pole-mounted ones because trees provide so many jumping options. Most experienced bird feeders eventually convert to pole systems for this reason.
Why height alone isn’t enough
A common mistake is thinking, “If I just hang the feeder high enough, squirrels can’t reach it.” Squirrels routinely access feeders hung 15 feet up in trees by jumping from higher branches and dropping down. Height matters, but it must be combined with the 10-foot horizontal rule from any potential jumping platform. A feeder 5 feet up, but properly isolated, is more squirrel-proof than a feeder 15 feet up in a tree.
The science: Why baffles work and why placement matters
Squirrels are excellent climbers and jumpers, but their physics have limits. They can’t climb past a properly sized baffle because the cone or cylinder shape creates an inverted surface they can’t grip. As they try to climb up the pole and encounter the underside of the baffle, their weight pulls them away from the surface rather than allowing them to grip and continue.
The 10-foot jumping rule is based on biomechanics. A gray squirrel weighing about 1 to 1.5 pounds has limited muscle power relative to its weight. While it can theoretically jump farther than 10 feet under ideal conditions (downhill, with a running start, in cool weather), the practical limit for the kind of jump needed to land precisely on a feeder is approximately 10 feet horizontally. Add a small margin for the few exceptional squirrels and account for varied conditions, and 10 feet becomes the reliable minimum.
The combination of these two factors (baffle they can’t climb past and distance they can’t jump) defeats squirrels not through clever engineering but through simple physical impossibility. There’s no learning their way past it because their bodies simply can’t perform the required movements.
Strategy 2: Weight-Activated Feeders
The second major category of effective squirrel-proofing uses mechanical feeders that close under squirrel weight while remaining open for lighter birds.
How they work. The feeding ports are connected to a spring-loaded perch mechanism. Light birds (chickadees, finches, cardinals) sit on the perch, and the ports stay open. When a heavier squirrel climbs onto the perch, the weight closes the ports completely, blocking access to the seed.
The brands worth considering. Two products dominate this category, and both work genuinely well:
Brome Squirrel Buster series. The Squirrel Buster Plus, Squirrel Buster Standard, and Squirrel Buster Classic are among the most reliable squirrel-proof feeders on the market. Lifetime warranty. Adjustable weight sensitivity (so you can exclude both squirrels AND large birds like grackles if desired). Price range $50 to $90, depending on size and features.
Roamwild PestOff feeders. A newer entrant with similar technology and slightly lower prices. Generally well-reviewed, though the warranty isn’t as comprehensive as Brome’s. Price range $30 to $60.
Avoid the cheap “squirrel-proof” feeders sold at big-box stores under generic brand names. Most have weak mechanisms that squirrels defeat by hanging upside down, by reaching into the seed ports with their paws, or simply by chewing through the plastic. The $15 “guaranteed squirrel-proof” feeder is almost always not.
The combined approach. A weight-activated feeder mounted on a properly baffled pole is the strongest single setup available. The pole and baffle prevent squirrels from climbing up. The weight-activated mechanism handles any squirrel that somehow gets past the pole defenses (such as jumping from an unexpected platform). Redundant defense means that even if one method fails, the system isn't compromised.
The science: Why weight-activation works
The mechanism exploits the simple weight difference between songbirds and squirrels. A typical chickadee weighs 0.3 to 0.5 ounces. A cardinal weighs 1.5 ounces. A gray squirrel weighs 16 to 24 ounces. That’s a tenfold or greater weight difference.
A properly calibrated weight-activated feeder can be set to allow access at weights below 4 to 6 ounces (sufficient for cardinals, woodpeckers, and most songbirds) while closing instantly at weights above that threshold. Squirrels can’t reduce their own weight, can’t trick the mechanism, and can’t learn to work around the physical limitation. The feeder either supports their weight (in which case the seed is blocked) or doesn’t (in which case they fall off).
Some squirrels learn to hang upside down from the feeder cap, reaching the seed ports with their feet. The Brome design specifically addresses this by extending the closing mechanism to all feeder ports regardless of the squirrel’s body position. Cheaper imitators don’t have this feature, which is why they fail.
Strategy 3: Seed Selection
The third approach is to feed birds with seeds that squirrels actively avoid. This works best as a complementary strategy rather than a standalone solution, because in winter, when food is scarce, hungry squirrels will eat almost anything.
Safflower seed
The single most effective squirrel-resistant seed. White safflower has a bitter taste that most squirrels reject. Cardinals, chickadees, finches, and many other songbirds eat it eagerly. Switching from sunflower to safflower in a backyard feeder dramatically reduces squirrel activity.
The trade-offs: safflower costs 30-50% more than black oil sunflower seed. Some birds prefer sunflowers and will visit less if only safflower is offered. Starlings and house sparrows also tend to avoid safflower (which is a feature, not a bug, if you’re trying to attract native songbirds).
Nyjer (thistle) seed
Tiny black seed that requires special feeders (mesh socks or specific nyjer feeders with small ports). Squirrels generally don’t bother with nyjer because its small seeds offer a low energy return for the effort of accessing them. Goldfinches, pine siskins, and other small finches love nyjer.
The trade-off: Nyjer attracts only small finches, so it doesn’t replace your general feeder. It’s a complementary food, not a substitute.
Hot pepper-infused seed
Capsaicin (the compound that makes peppers hot) affects mammals but not birds. Squirrels find pepper-treated seed unpleasant. Birds eat it without any noticeable effect because their nervous systems lack the receptor that responds to capsaicin.
The trade-offs: hot pepper seed costs more than regular seed. Some squirrels (particularly in winter) will eat it anyway because the calorie payoff outweighs the discomfort. There’s also some welfare concern about whether prolonged capsaicin exposure causes harm to squirrels, even if it doesn’t kill them.
Brands worth knowing: Cole’s Hot Meats, Cole’s Flaming Squirrel Seed Sauce (an additive you can apply to your existing seed).
Seeds squirrels love (avoid these for general feeding)
If your goal is to discourage squirrels, don’t fill your feeders with the seeds they prefer. The squirrel favorites include: striped sunflower seed (large seeds with thick shells that they can easily crack), peanuts (their preferred food), corn (cracked or whole), and any seed mix labeled “wildlife mix” or “squirrel and bird mix.”
Black oil sunflower seed is the universal bird favorite, but it also attracts squirrels heavily. It’s the seed most American bird feeders use, which is part of why squirrel problems are so universal. Consider switching to safflower as your primary seed if squirrels are a persistent problem.
The science: Why safflower deters squirrels
Safflower seed contains compounds that taste bitter to mammals (including squirrels) but not to birds. The compound responsible is one of several lipids unique to safflower. Birds either can’t taste it or don’t find it unpleasant. Mammals find it actively distasteful.
This isn’t a behavioral learned response — it’s a chemical response baked into squirrel taste receptors. Even hungry squirrels typically reject safflower when alternative food is available. They’ll eat it as an absolute last resort in severe winter when nothing else exists, but in normal conditions, they’ll go elsewhere.
The same evolutionary reason explains why hot peppers work on squirrels but not on birds. Capsaicin receptors evolved in mammals as a defense against eating spicy plants that might be harmful. Birds, which often disperse the seeds of pepper plants, evolved without those receptors so they could eat the fruit and spread the seeds.
Methods That Don’t Work (Or Don’t Work Reliably)
A significant portion of squirrel-proofing advice online and in product marketing is genuinely useless or unreliable. Worth knowing what to avoid.
Petroleum jelly or grease on the pole. Old folk advice. The grease attracts dirt, becomes ineffective within days, can stain decks and clothes, and may harm any animals (including birds) that come into contact with it. Modern wisdom is to avoid this approach.
Slinky on the pole. Internet-popular but unreliable. The slinky catches and bends, eventually allowing squirrels to climb past. Doesn’t last long. A proper baffle is far more effective for a similar cost.
Spinning poles or rotating perches. Some products feature mechanisms that spin when squirrels grab them, theoretically throwing them off. Most squirrels learn to ride them or jump off and try again. Some work briefly, then fail.
Ultrasonic squirrel repellers. Marketed as devices that emit sounds squirrels find unpleasant. Independent testing shows minimal to no effect. Don’t waste money on these.
Predator urine or decoys (owls, snakes). Squirrels learn within days that fake owls don’t move and fake snakes don’t strike. Predator urine has a limited effect on suburban squirrels who are habituated to human environments. Largely ineffective.
Squirrel feeders to “distract” them from the bird feeder. This sounds reasonable, but in practice, it attracts MORE squirrels to your yard, which means more pressure on your bird feeder. Don’t feed squirrels separately if your goal is fewer squirrels.
Cheap “squirrel-proof” feeders under $20. Almost universally fail within weeks. The genuinely effective weight-activated feeders are priced between $30 and $90.
Hanging the feeder from a thin string or wire (assuming squirrels can’t climb it). Squirrels can climb almost any string or wire. Doesn’t work.
Trapping and relocating squirrels. Illegal in many US states without a permit. Doesn’t solve the problem because new squirrels move into the territory within weeks. Ethical concerns about relocated squirrels surviving in unfamiliar territory.
Setting Up Your Bird Feeding Station Properly
Beyond individual products, the overall setup of your feeding station matters enormously. Here’s what works.
Choose the right location first, then buy products. Walk around your yard and identify the best location for a feeder based on the 10-foot rule. The right spot is at least 10 feet from any tree, fence, shed, deck, or jumping platform. Once you’ve identified the location, you can determine what pole length and baffle size you need.
Install the pole permanently and rigidly. A wobbly pole is easier for squirrels to defeat. Use a pole that’s designed to be hammered into the ground (with a ground sleeve), or set the pole in concrete for permanent installation. The pole should not move when you shake it firmly.
Position the feeder 5 to 6 feet above the ground. High enough that squirrels can’t simply jump up from the ground. Low enough that you can easily refill it, and that birds feel safe (very high feeders are sometimes avoided by ground-feeding birds).
Keep the ground beneath the feeder clean. Spilled seed on the ground attracts squirrels, rodents, and ground-feeding birds you may not want. A seed catcher tray below the feeder, or regular cleaning of fallen seed, reduces this problem significantly.
Provide water nearby. A bird bath or water source within 10 to 20 feet of the feeder increases bird usage dramatically. Birds need water year-round, and a feeder with adjacent water becomes a much more attractive destination.
Plant native shrubs or evergreens nearby for cover. Birds need cover within 10 to 15 feet of the feeder so they can escape if a hawk or other predator appears. Without nearby cover, many birds will avoid the feeder entirely. Native evergreen shrubs (juniper, holly, arborvitae) provide year-round cover.
Clean the feeder regularly. Old wet seed grows mould that can sicken birds. Clean feeders every 2 to 4 weeks during heavy use, more often in wet weather. Disassemble the feeder, scrub with hot soapy water, rinse thoroughly, dry completely, then refill with fresh seed.
Regional Variations Across The US
Squirrel pressure varies significantly across the US, and different regions face slightly different challenges.
Northeast and Midwest. Eastern gray squirrels are the dominant species. Population densities are high in suburban areas. Year-round feeding is common, which means year-round squirrel pressure. Black walnut trees (where they’re present) provide squirrels with abundant alternative food in fall, reducing feeder pressure briefly. Winter pressure peaks in January through March when natural food is scarce.
Southeast. Eastern gray squirrels are joined by fox squirrels in many areas. Fox squirrels are larger (up to 2.5 pounds) and even more athletic than gray squirrels. The 10-foot rule may need to be 12 feet in fox squirrel territory. Year-round pressure with no significant seasonal lulls.
Southwest and Mountain West. Tassel-eared squirrels, Abert’s squirrels, and rock squirrels are common in different sub-regions. Each behaves somewhat differently, but all have similar physical capabilities to gray squirrels. Pine cone availability reduces feeder pressure in heavily wooded areas.
Pacific Northwest. Eastern gray squirrels (introduced) have largely displaced native western gray squirrels in suburban areas. Pressure is similar to the Northeast. Year-round feeding is common.
California. Eastern fox squirrels (introduced) dominate in much of urban California. Western gray squirrels exist in less developed areas. Similar physical capabilities and pressure to other regions.
Florida and the Gulf Coast. Eastern gray squirrels with some fox squirrel populations. Pressure is year-round and intense. Heat and humidity also mean feeders need to be cleaned more frequently to prevent mold.
Hawaii and Alaska. No squirrels in Hawaii (the squirrel problem genuinely doesn’t exist). Red squirrels are found in Alaska, but in lower urban populations than in the continental US.
The core principles of squirrel-proofing apply everywhere, but the specific 10-foot rule may need adjustment in fox squirrel territory, where the larger species can sometimes jump further.
The Most Common Squirrel-Proofing Mistakes
Worth knowing what most people get wrong so you can avoid the same mistakes.
Underestimating the jumping distance squirrels can cover. The most common mistake. People install feeders 5 to 7 feet from a fence or tree and assume that’s safe. It isn’t. The 10-foot minimum is genuinely necessary.
Using too small a baffle. Baffles under 12 inches in diameter don’t work. The minimum effective size is 15 inches, ideally 18 inches.
Buying cheap “squirrel-proof” feeders. The $15 squirrel-proof feeder at the big-box store will fail within weeks. The $40 Brome Squirrel Buster will work for years.
Forgetting about overhead jumping platforms. People remember to check ground-level platforms (fences, walls) but forget about tree branches above the feeder. Squirrels routinely drop down from overhead onto feeders.
Mounting baffles too low on the pole. A baffle has to be high enough that squirrels can’t jump from the ground past it. Minimum 4 feet above ground.
Using a wooden pole. Squirrels climb wooden poles easily despite any baffles. Use smooth metal.
Filling the feeder with sunflower seed and then being surprised by squirrel activity. Sunflower is squirrel candy. If squirrels are a problem, switch to safflower.
Giving up after one failed product. Squirrel-proofing requires combining methods. The first attempt usually fails because it’s a single defense. Layered defenses (pole + baffle + weight-activated feeder + safflower seed) succeed where single approaches fail.
Leaving spilled seed on the ground. Even if your feeder is perfectly squirrel-proof, spilled seed attracts squirrels to the area. Clean up regularly.
Trying to outsmart squirrels with clever gimmicks. Squirrels learn fast. Physical impossibility (baffles, weight mechanisms) beats clever tricks every time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will squirrels eventually give up if I keep them off my feeder?
Yes, mostly. Squirrels that consistently fail to access your feeder will eventually focus their efforts elsewhere. You may still see occasional squirrels in the yard, but they’ll stop spending significant time trying to access the feeder. Plan for a 4 to 8 week adjustment period where they keep trying before they give up.
What about flying squirrels?
Flying squirrels are smaller than gray squirrels (typically 2 to 4 ounces) and feed primarily at night. They can access feeders through gliding, which defeats the 10-foot horizontal rule. Most weight-activated feeders won’t close under their own weight. If you have flying squirrels (more common in heavily wooded areas), the best approach is to bring feeders inside at night or accept some flying squirrel visitation.
Why are squirrels suddenly worse this year?
Often related to natural food availability. Years with poor mast crops (acorns, hickory nuts, walnuts) push squirrels to seek alternative food sources more aggressively. Drought years also increase pressure on supplemental food sources like bird feeders. Population peaks (squirrel populations' cycle) also produce worse years.
Can I just shoot/poison/trap squirrels to solve the problem?
Shooting may be illegal in your municipality, and discharging firearms in residential areas is restricted almost everywhere. Poisoning is cruel and risks killing non-target wildlife, pets, and birds (which would defeat the purpose of feeding birds). Trapping and relocating are illegal in many states and ineffective regardless (new squirrels move into vacated territory). Physical exclusion through proper feeder setup is the only sustainable solution.
Do certain bird feeder brands really last forever?
Brome’s Squirrel Buster series has a genuine lifetime warranty, and the company replaces parts free. Some owners have had the same Squirrel Buster running for 15+ years. Most other “lifetime warranty” claims in the bird feeder industry are less reliable, so research the specific brand before assuming.
Is it cruel to squirrel-proof my feeder?
No. Squirrels have abundant natural food sources and survive perfectly well without access to bird feeders. You’re not denying them survival, you’re denying them an easy, free meal. Wild squirrels are well-equipped to thrive without human handouts.
Should I feed squirrels separately to keep them off the bird feeder?
Generally not. Feeding squirrels separately increases the squirrel population in your yard, which usually means more pressure on the bird feeder, not less. The smart approach is to make bird food inaccessible to squirrels and let them find their own food elsewhere.
Why do the birds keep dropping seeds on the ground (and how does this affect squirrels)?
Many birds (especially sparrows and house finches) are messy eaters that scatter seed while foraging. This spilled seed attracts squirrels, mice, and rats to the ground beneath the feeder. Solutions include no-mess seed blends (which have shells already removed so birds eat more cleanly), seed catcher trays beneath the feeder, or simply daily cleanup of spilled seed.
My weight-activated feeder isn’t closing under squirrels. What’s wrong?
Most likely, the sensitivity is set too low (allowing too much weight before closing), or the squirrel has figured out a way to access the seed without putting full weight on the perch. Brome feeders have adjustable sensitivity — increase it slightly until squirrels can’t access the seed but birds still can. If a squirrel is hanging upside down from the cap, you have a cheaper imitator rather than a genuine Brome design.
Will baffles work on hanging feeders?
Yes, but you need dome baffles (mounted above the feeder) rather than cone baffles (mounted below on a pole). The dome must be at least 18 inches in diameter and positioned to prevent squirrels from reaching around it from above.
What’s the most cost-effective squirrel-proofing approach?
For a single feeder setup, the most cost-effective combination is: a sturdy 7-foot metal pole ($30-50), a properly sized baffle ($25-50), and either a basic feeder filled with safflower seed (cheapest option) or a Squirrel Buster Standard ($50-70). Total cost is $80 to $170 for a setup that should last years and genuinely keep squirrels off.
Do squirrels carry diseases I should worry about?
Rarely. Squirrels can theoretically carry tularemia, leptospirosis, and a few other diseases, but transmission to humans is extremely rare. The bigger risks at bird feeders are diseases that birds spread to each other (salmonella, mycoplasmal conjunctivitis), which is why regular feeder cleaning matters. Avoid direct contact with squirrels, but don’t worry about disease transmission from sharing a yard with them.
Can I use a Slinky or chicken wire on the pole instead of a real baffle?
Slinkies work briefly, then fail (typically within a few weeks). Chicken wire doesn’t prevent climbing and may injure squirrels who get caught in it. Spend the $30 to $50 on a real baffle. The improvised solutions cost less initially but fail and cost more in lost seed and frustration.
Final Thoughts
The squirrel war at the bird feeder isn’t really a war. It’s a physics problem that has clean physical solutions.
If you take one thing from this article, take this: the 10-foot horizontal rule combined with a properly mounted baffle on a smooth metal pole at least 7 feet tall will defeat squirrels through physical impossibility, not through any clever gimmick. Add a weight-activated feeder if you want belt-and-suspenders security. Switch to safflower seed if you want to further reduce squirrel interest.
The mistake most people make is treating squirrel-proofing as a product problem (which “guaranteed squirrel-proof” item should I buy?) rather than a setup problem (where do I place the feeder and how do I configure the defenses?). The setup matters more than any single product.
A properly set-up feeding station with a baffle, distance from jumping platforms, and good seed choice keeps squirrels out permanently. Not for weeks. Not until the squirrels figure it out. Permanently, because squirrels physically can’t defeat the setup, no matter how many times they try.
The birds you actually want to feed will return within a few weeks of squirrel exclusion. Your seed budget will start feeding cardinals and chickadees instead of squirrels. You’ll be able to watch the feeder from your kitchen window without feeling frustrated.
And the squirrels will eventually figure out that your yard isn’t worth the effort, and they’ll go bother someone whose feeder setup makes their lives easier. Someone else’s loss is your gain. And honestly, in a year or two, when you’ve forgotten how bad it used to be, you might even enjoy watching the squirrels chase each other through your trees instead of robbing your bird feeder.
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